Berina A23 Flaming Red Dye: Analysis of Ingredients and Skin Allergy Risks

Hair coloring is a popular and expressive way to change your appearance, make a style statement, or cover gray hair. From natural shades to bold, vibrant colors like "Flaming Red," the options are vast. However, behind the aesthetic appeal lies a chemical reality: permanent hair dyes contain potentially reactive ingredients that can trigger skin reactions, sometimes severe, in some people. Therefore, the question of safety and allergy risks is paramount. This article specifically looks at Berina Hair Dye, Flaming Red A23 : does it contain allergens known to cause skin reactions?

We will analyze in detail the composition of this product, identify the ingredients most likely to cause allergies, explain the mechanisms of these reactions and emphasize the critical importance of precautionary measures, including the skin allergy test. The goal is to provide clear and documented information to enable more conscious and safe use of hair coloring products.

Understanding Skin Reactions to Hair Dyes

Allergy vs. Irritation: Two Different Mechanisms

When a skin reaction occurs after applying hair dye, it is important to distinguish between two main types of reactions:

• Irritant Contact Dermatitis: This is the most common reaction. It does not involve the immune system. It is caused by the direct action of a harsh ingredient (such as ammonia or hydrogen peroxide) that damages the skin barrier. Symptoms appear quickly (within minutes to hours of contact) and are usually localized to the area of ​​application (scalp). They include: redness, burning or stinging sensations, dryness, and peeling. The severity depends on the concentration of the irritant, the duration of contact, and individual skin sensitivity.
• Allergic Contact Dermatitis: This is a reaction of the immune system to a specific substance (the allergen) to which the person has become sensitized. The first exposure to the allergen does not usually cause a visible reaction, but it "programs" the immune system to recognize the substance as a threat (sensitization phase). On subsequent exposures, even to very small amounts, the immune system triggers an inflammatory response. Symptoms are often delayed , typically appearing 24 to 72 hours after application (sometimes earlier or later). They may be more extensive than the initial application area and include:
  • Intense itching (pruritus)
  • Redness (erythema)
  • Swelling (edema) of the scalp, but also often of the forehead, eyelids, ears, or even the entire face
  • Appearance of small vesicles (blisters) filled with fluid
  • Oozing and crusting
  • In severe cases, the reaction may spread to the neck and trunk, requiring urgent medical attention. Anaphylactic reactions (difficulty breathing, throat swelling) are rare but possible.

Permanent hair dyes can cause both types of reactions, but allergic contact dermatitis, particularly to PPD, is of particular concern because of its potential severity and the permanent nature of the sensitization (once allergic, you stay allergic).

The Awareness Phenomenon

A crucial aspect of dye allergy is sensitization. A person can use a hair color containing an allergen (such as PPD) for years without any problems. However, with each application, the immune system is exposed to the allergen. In some predisposed individuals, this repeated exposure eventually triggers the sensitization phase. Once sensitized, the person will react allergically the next time the product (or a product containing a similar allergen) is applied. This is why it is absolutely vital to perform an allergy test before each coloring , even if the product has been used without concern before.

Identification of Potential Allergens in Berina A23

An analysis of the ingredients list of Berina A23 coloring cream and activating cream reveals the presence of several substances known for their irritating or allergenic potential. Let's focus on the most significant ones.

p-Phenylenediamine (PPD): The Number One Allergen

The presence of p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) in the coloring cream is the most concerning element in terms of allergy. As mentioned previously:

• Essential Role: It is an essential color precursor in most dark and vibrant permanent hair colors. It penetrates the hair and then oxidizes to form large, stable color molecules within the fiber.
• High Allergenic Potential: PPD is recognized worldwide as one of the most potent and common contact allergens in cosmetics. Its small size and chemical reactivity allow it to easily bind to skin proteins, triggering an immune response in sensitized individuals.
• Possible Severe Reactions: Allergic reactions to PPD can range from mild itching to severe facial swelling and difficulty breathing in extreme cases.
• Cross-Reactivity: A PPD allergy often involves an allergy to other similar "para-amines," such as paratoluenediamine (PTD, often used as an alternative to PPD in "PPD-free" products, but which can still cause reactions in people allergic to PPD). It can also lead to reactions to other products (temporary "black henna" tattoos often illegally laced with PPD, certain textiles, black rubber, etc.).
• Regulation: The maximum concentration of PPD allowed in hair dyes after mixing is strictly regulated in many regions (e.g., 2% in the European Union).

The presence of PPD in Berina A23 means that this product poses a high risk of allergic reaction in individuals already sensitized to PPD or related compounds.

Resorcinol: Another Important Allergen

Resorcinol is also listed in the coloring cream. It is another ingredient frequently implicated in hair dye reactions:

• Coupler Role: It reacts with oxidized PPD to create or modify the final shade of color. It is particularly important for achieving certain tones of blondes, browns, and reds.
• Recognized Allergenic Potential: Although considered a less potent and less frequent sensitizer than PPD, resorcinol is nevertheless a significant cause of allergic contact dermatitis to dyes.
• Other Concerns: Resorcinol is also suspected of being a potential endocrine disruptor, although exposure levels via hair dyes are generally considered low by regulatory authorities. It is also subject to concentration limitations (e.g., 1.25% maximum after mixing in the EU for oxidation dyes).

The combined presence of PPD and Resorcinol increases the overall allergenic profile of the Berina A23 product.

Ammonium Hydroxide (Ammonia): The Major Irritant

Ammonium Hydroxide is the aqueous form of ammonia. Its role is to alkalize the formula:

• Action: It swells the hair fiber and opens the cuticle scales, allowing color precursors (PPD, Resorcinol) and hydrogen peroxide to penetrate effectively.
• Adverse Reactions: Ammonia is primarily a strong irritant . Its pungent odor is characteristic and can irritate the respiratory tract and eyes. On the scalp, it can cause tingling, redness, and a burning sensation, especially if the skin is sensitive or has micro-lesions.
• Indirect Impact on Allergy: Although true ammonia allergy is rare, the irritation it causes can damage the skin's protective barrier. An irritated or damaged scalp is potentially more permeable to allergens like PPD, which could facilitate sensitization or worsen an existing allergic reaction.

Other Ingredients to Consider

• Hydrogen Peroxide: Present in the developer (9%, or 30 volumes, a common but potentially irritating concentration). It is necessary to oxidize color precursors and slightly lighten the natural color. Primarily an irritant, rarely an allergen.
• Perfume: Mentioned in the coloring cream. Perfume blends are a very common cause of contact allergy in cosmetics. Without a detailed list of perfume components, it is impossible to identify specific potential allergens, but the risk exists for people sensitive to perfumes.
• Sodium Sulfite: Antioxidant. Sulfites can cause reactions (hives, etc.) in some people, although this is more common with ingestion than with cutaneous application.
• Fatty Alcohols (Stearyl, Cetyl) and Oleic Acid: Generally well tolerated and beneficial for the texture of the product and the softness of the hair, but contact reactions are possible in very rare cases in hypersensitive individuals.
• Stabilizers and Chelators (Tetrasodium EDTA, 8-Hydroxyquinoline Sulfate): Essential for product performance and shelf life. Generally considered to have low, but not zero, allergenic potential.

Direct Response: Berina A23 Contains Common Allergens

Based on the analysis of its composition, the answer to the initial question is clear: YES, Berina hair dye, Flaming Red A23, contains common and powerful allergens, including p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) and Resorcinol, which are known to be responsible for many allergic skin reactions. It also contains irritants such as Ammonium Hydroxide and Hydrogen Peroxide, as well as Perfume, another common potential allergen.

The Allergy Alert Test (Patch Test): A Non-Negotiable Step

Given the very real allergic risk posed by ingredients like PPD and Resorcinol, the only way to significantly reduce the danger before full application is to systematically carry out an allergy alert test, also known as a patch test.

What to Do in Case of a Reaction and What Alternatives to Consider?

What to Do in the Event of a Reaction

• Patch Test Reaction: Rinse the area immediately and thoroughly. Do not use the product. Consult a doctor if the reaction is severe or persists.
• Reaction During Application: Discontinue application immediately. Rinse the entire head thoroughly with warm water for several minutes to remove all traces of product. Do not apply other products. Consult a doctor promptly.
• Reaction After Application (in the following hours or days): Consult a doctor immediately, especially in case of swelling of the face, eyelids or difficulty breathing. The doctor may prescribe antihistamines, corticosteroids (topical or oral) to calm inflammation and itching. Inform the doctor of the product used (keep the packaging).

After a confirmed allergic reaction to an oxidation dye, it is crucial to permanently avoid any product containing the identified allergen (often PPD or related compounds) . A consultation with a dermatologist or allergist is recommended to confirm the allergy through patch testing (performed by a specialist) and to discuss safe alternatives.

Alternatives for People with Allergies or Concerns

If you are allergic or want to avoid common allergens like PPD and Resorcinol, there are several options, each with its own pros and cons:

• "PPD-Free" Hair Colorants: Be careful, these products often contain substitutes such as Paratoluenediamine (PTD) or other precursors that can also cause reactions, especially in people already sensitized to PPD (cross-reactivity). Careful reading of the ingredients and patch testing remain essential.
• Semi-Permanent or Temporary Hair Color: These apply color to the hair's surface without any deep oxidation. The risk of allergy is generally lower (but check for fragrances and preservatives). They fade with regular shampooing.
• Plant-Based Dyes (Henna, Indigo, Cassia): Pure henna (Lawsonia inermis) gives coppery to reddish highlights and is rarely allergenic. Indigo gives blue/black tones, cassia gives golden or neutral highlights. They can be mixed to obtain different shades of brown, chestnut, and auburn. The process is different (long application times, results depend on the base color). Crucial warning: Absolutely avoid so-called "black henna" products, which almost always contain illegally added PPD and are extremely dangerous. Use only 100% pure, plant-based powders from reliable sources. A patch test is still recommended.
• Embrace Your Natural Color: The safest solution to avoid any chemical risk!

Conclusion: Yes, Berina A23 Contains Major Allergens – Caution is Essential

In conclusion, the answer is unequivocal: Berina Hair Dye, Flaming Red A23, does indeed contain common and powerful allergens, the most prominent of which are p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) and Resorcinol . These components, although effective in achieving an intense and long-lasting red color, are responsible for the majority of allergic reactions to permanent hair dyes.

The risk of developing allergic contact dermatitis, sometimes severe, is therefore very real for people using this product, especially those who are already sensitized or who have an atopic background. It is crucial to understand that the allergy can manifest itself even after several uses without previous problems.

Therefore, safety must take precedence over aesthetics. The systematic and rigorous performance of the allergy alert test 48 hours before each application is not a simple recommendation, but an absolute necessity to minimize risks. Ignoring this crucial step is like playing Russian roulette with your skin health.

If you choose to use this hair color, do so with full knowledge of the risks, carefully following the directions and precautions, and be prepared to consult a doctor at the slightest sign of a reaction. For those with allergies or looking to avoid these compounds, alternatives exist and are worth exploring in consultation with a healthcare or hairdressing professional.